Time Is On My Side: Passionné D’exception . . . (A Selection of Watches)

[Posh]

(Note: Please buy from whatever dealer or site from which you feel most comfortable.)

People seem to think that Posh is a one trick pony. Well, I'm here to say I turn many tricks not just one . . . Wait. That didn't sound right. Like Mr. DeWitt's slogan in the title would suggest, I get excited about things that are exceptional . . . without exception.

I have been asked about watches several times and it seems to go up with each new posting so this was coming. This tiny compendium of some of knowledge might help.

They think I only know about bags, suitcases and fashion and know next to nothing about watches. This is not entirely accurate. My knowledge of watches, like my knowledge of all things relating to fashion, politics, music, books, charity, film, art, interiors, and automobile, is very selective as there is a LOT of chaff out there. For example, I can't really tell you about the latest Kia coming out but, as a proud and loyal Mercedes owner, I'd be happy to converse about the CLS, SLR or Ocean Drive concept. I don't want to know about every brand because A) I don't have that kind of time and B) I have a full life and a day job! But the knowledge I do posses is about what I feel are important subjects, brands and goods. And, ultimately, my love affair is with luxury goods as a whole from watches to clothes to bags to shoes. If I'm guilty of anything, it's a passion for living, beauty and luxury.

But back to watches. My fascination with them started when I was a child. My grandfather, who would unequivocally be called the watch nut in the family, had an impressive collection of timepieces. I'd walk into his bedroom and pull my grandmother's vanity stool over to his chest of drawers to stand on as I admired all the dials, straps and cases. He must have had at least ten watches and each one was different and more beautiful than the one before it. I can recall some of them: he had three Rolexes, a Hamilton and a Breguet he said he'd gotten pre-owned for next to nothing after the start of World War II and many others. My favorites in his collection were a Longines with diamonds (of course!) in the face and a solid gold Patek Philippe he'd gotten years before even my mother was born. I would slip all of them on each wrist with my grandmother's necklaces all on and parade around the house like royalty. My little sister during this time was content with playing with the pots and pans in their kitchen. Pots and pans. I could never understand the allure of pots and pans. But she was four about to be five so I guess it makes sense. She's always been a pot metal girl while I have preferred just a little bit more.

Well, my love of watches increased exponentially when my parents bought me the most amazing Minnie Mouse watch with the gloved hands on little arms that pointed to the time. I was ten years old and so happy to have a watch that wasn't digital! It had REAL hands and REAL numbers just like a grown up watch! I got the watch just before we set out on a trip to see my grandparents. I set the time and for THREE HOURS I compared the time change on the watch with the clock on the dash, they were five minutes apart, you see. Head up, head down, head up, head down FOR THREE HOURS. When we arrived, I ran into the house and showed the watch to my grandfather. He hugged me and said it was pretty, just like me. I know I will never forget that day for as long as I live.

Fast forward a decade to my late teens and early 20s and the fervor for watches had turned from a constant craving to smoldering desire. After my grandfather died, we sold all of his watches except for the ones that the grandkids wanted to keep and the Patek Philippe. I got his now vintage Rolex Explorer I which I gave to my sister when my parents bought me a Chopard Prince of Wales for my graduation from college. In the interest of full disclosure, the watch is CHOKING with diamonds (you know my stance), diamonds I cannot be sure are conflict-free or were mined ethically so I cannot possibly wear it. I wanted my parents to give money to a charity in lieu of a gift and they refused because they wanted me to have something special to mark the occasion and their pride in me. Well, to satisfy part of my request and soothe their need to give me something special, they bought me a Chopard Prince of Wales watch, the watch line commemorating the partnership that Chopard maintains with the Prince of Wales' foundation, with part of the sale of every watch going to said foundation. In addition to that, Chopard donates very special, very expensive watches to the foundation which they then auction off. My passion for watches was rekindled with the Explorer I and sustained with the Chopard that now lives in a safe deposit box at a Bank of America in Virginia.

The list of watches and brands below represent what I feel is the grand past of horology and/or it's great future. These companies have distinguished themselves by creating a legacy instead of merely borrowing one from the Swatch group, which is a tough thing to do. I believe in the coming decades thanks to the companies below, some VERY exciting years are head for the world of watches.

There may be one exception to this statement but I included them because I really just love the watch! The watches in this group fall into two arbitrary categories: "casual" and "dress." But how and when you wear them is totally up to you.

DeWitt

Jerome DeWitt is a descendant of Napolean I, Emperor of France, and his brother Jerome. He didn't just inherit his great-great-great-great-great grandfather King Jerome of Westphalia's name, he also recently got part of his utterly exceptional watch collection as well and decided, after backing a failed watch company, to begin his own. So, you could say his love of watches is coursing through his blood. The company has already patented two types of tourbillon: constant force and differential, which are both wonders of micro engineering. The former CEO of Vacheron Constantin, Claude-Daniel Proellochs is DeWitt's business partner and one of his major investors. Proellochs said he would not get back into the watch industry if he left it but appears to have broken his promise. He saw Jerome DeWitt's passion and commitment and wanted to help the company become what it is today: a luxury watch brand that is gaining the respect and business of serious watch collectors all over the world.

Jerome DeWitt's desire to start a watchmaking brand that has managed to carve a name out for itself in a short time by making a commitment to horological innovation (producing as many components in-house as possible and integrating more every year since 2003), keen design and exquisite before and after sale client service is what drives the company. Their explosive, but controlled, growth has them headquartered in a palatial villa that has been extensively renovated outside Geneva which beautifully exemplifies what the brand is all about.

The thing I like as much about DeWitt as the watches themselves is their already well-known service to their clients that rivals anything offered by even Patek Philippe, which is already insanely good. A client had a problem with one of their watches and DeWitt flew a watchsmith from Switzerland to America out to the client's home to repair it, free of charge. The client pointed out other watches in his collection that were also malfunctioning or not working and the technician fixed those as well! I love hearing stories like this because customer service sometimes appears to be the LAST thing some companies are concerned with, and it's those very same clients that keep them afloat!

Jerome DeWitt, who wears two watches constantly, is quirky, brilliant and visionary and deserves to have his watch knocked off for it. LOL

Academia 1940 Chronograph

DeWitt's fervor for all things mechanical, like watches and cars, lead him to create the instantly recognizable design you see below. Strangely enough for such an expensive watch, the case was inspired by the gears of one of Europe's Favorite Every Car: the Citroen 2CV! He wished for its axle gear heritage to be apparent when you're looking down on the dial but refined so that when you view it from the side your eye dances over the graceful trademark "Imperial Columns" that encircle the case. Those two details make this a watch that is at once comfortable in casual settings and formal events.

The genuine of this watch is made from some new old stock Valjoux 71 eubaches found in the cellar of their new villa headquarters, hence the watch's name. They carefully cleaned them, reworked them and placed them in some of their Academia cases. Notably, most of their watches are actually powered by antique Venus movements that have been engineered for greater performance along with the addition of new features like a retrograde perpetual calendar or split second chronograph. This watch below is recreating this limited edition watch but is made of stainless steel and has a copy of of the Venus 75 in it, which, as stated, is similar to the movement used in genuine watches created by DeWitt.

A striking thing about each watch being made is that each one is produced by ONE watchmaker, from start to finish, not unlike an AMG engine for Mercedes. DeWitt likens this to the creation of an art object where the person who started the construction lovingly finishes it. Most all of the watchsmakers DeWitt has working for him have actually joined from other prestigious brands, like Patek Philippe, WITHOUT any recruiting from DeWitt themselves.

I've actually seen this watch in person at a dinner party I attended in Virgina a few weeks ago and it's more compelling and beautiful in person than in ANY photograph. The man who wore it was a Ferrari-driving, steroid crazed meathead suffering from tanorexia but he was actually VERY knowledgeable about watches and extremely intelligent in general. He had received, before I walked up to him, three separate compliments on the watch with my compliment being fourth. He had only purchased it the day before.

The watches come in many different styles at the various and sundry dealers, some spot on to genuine and others that are insulting. Take your pick!

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The watch also comes in this highly detailed Limited Edition Sequential case in titanium, rubber and red gold plating with the Asian 7750. This replica is nearly spot on to the real watch and I'm half inclined to believe they actually DID buy a real one (or borrowed one) to replicate it to this level and I say half because this watch, in genuine form, is HIGHLY collectible and TERRIBLY expensive and I can't imagine a collector or retailer letting it out of their sight unless it was purchased. The quality on the DeWitt below is sinfully good, especially on the Academia Sequential. They can't even replicate simple watches correctly but THIS watch with all these materials and details they get right?! I'm astonished!

DeWitt Academia Sequential Sport:

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A Plethora of Patek Philippes:

Patek Philippe is at the top of the horology chain, without a doubt. The single most complicated watch ever in existence was made by them. The single highest price paid at auction for a watch was for a Patek Philippe. The watches are considered the most collectible of all watches and they have not made a complicated watch in the past 30 years that hasn't appreciated above its original retail price. The company's watches, arguably even some of their most pedestrian watches, sells for above list. The Stern Family which owns Patek Philippe is very, very careful about where their watches are sold and wants to know quite a bit about the person who buys them, crafting an image of pure luxury that even Hermes should be a little jealous of. Most serious collector's agree that for any true collection of watches to be complete, you have to own AT LEAST ONE Patek Philippe. I believe they say one because typically one is all anyone is really able to afford!

The company has not been in existence as long as some other brands but they distinguished themselves from others by cultivating quality and innovation in their timepieces with features like the chronograph and perpetual calendar.

In the world of horology, there is a definite hierarchy of brands, as any collector will tell you. High Ebay prices are NOT the measurement of a brand's prestige and cache among real collectors. As usual, among lower watch enthusiasts, but not among true connoisseurs, some brands become popular and collectible for very, very short periods before the “next big thing” comes out which inevitably sends values sliding back to just below retail. One of the things shielding Patek Philippe from this type of market mania is that they make most all of their movements and the parts for the movements themselves. There is NO OTHER BRAND that has access to ANY of their movements, making a Patek Philippe a luxury like no other watch available; even the Lemania movements they used prior to 2006 for their chronographs weren't available to any other watch manufacturer due to an ironclad contract they had with Breguet, Lemania's owner. What Rolex produces in one year, Patek has barely achieved in almost two centuries, making them exclusive and desired the world over. There is no other brand of watch in the world that can boast of the fact that ownership of their product will guarantee appreciation except for one—Patek Philippe is that brand.

Keeping in the mind the specialness and rarity of a piece of art and mobile status that a Patek Philippe is, it's difficult to recommend a replica since that intangible something that makes owning one a unique experience is almost completely absent in the replica. That is not usually the case with other replicas. You can buy a Rolex SeaDweller that looks and performs just like the genuine watch. Opening the SeaDweller obliterates the fantasy but externally, it's all there. Most of the Panerais, no matter how you spin it, are equal to their genuine counterparts in every single way, including internally because they have no true exclusive movements, ssixes be damned. No one really knows the brand well enough to tell you your watch is not real anyway; there's a lot of Paneristi that would easily be fooled by any of the modded Panerais around here. And you want to know what level of quality Panerai replicas have achieved? Some authorized stores REFUSE to do authentications now.

In contrast, you can take of these Patek watches to an authorized Patek dealer and they will NOT be mistaken for genuine. Ever. But that notwithstanding, this frees you from a lot of the extra money needed to make the watch look authentic or have an authentic movement. You can just simply ENJOY the watch. Besides, Patek Philippe, like any high-end French atelier, made SO MANY unique watches and variations on their general production watches, especially their complicated and grand complicated watches, that identifying one as real or replica at first, second or third glance is impossible in most cases.

Patek Philippe 10024:

I'll admit, I had a tough time trying to find a genuine watch upon which this replica is based. I rechecked multiple public vintage Patek galleries and didn't find something near enough to this for my taste. I eventually located it in a private Patek owner's forum of which my father is a (rarely) active member. This watch most closely imitates the reference 4907, a rare model that was in production for less than a year. This replica has a Patek Philippe sensibility, to be sure, that is at once classic without being kitschy like so many watches in this vintage vein tend to be. Crisply printed Roman numerals in white, really stand out out against the stern black dial. This watch would be perfect for any evening event or if you're wearing a lot of black. The watch is not outlandishly big and not terribly small so it is perfect for both men and women, the kind of women that like big watches. I suggest for young guys and girls who want to wear it more often to give it a modern touch with a strap in a fun color like white, yellow, red or blue. Want to take it to the next level beyond that? Pair the vibrant color with an exotic skin like stingray or ostrich. These otherwise well-made replicas usually come with horrific straps. Upgrading to a high quality strap will take this watch, and all the ones below into the stratosphere! Right now, buying and wearing vintage watches is very hot right now and has been for a while and doesn't appear subsiding anytime soon so enjoy. :o)

The case is plated in 5 mils of white gold. I don't usually like gold plated anything for the most obvious reason. White gold is acceptable because if it wears off, there's another whitish metal underneath so it won't be so perceptible. The thing I have a question about is whether it is plated with rhodium or not. White gold is not REALLY white at all which is why it is plated in rhodium, a noble white metal in the same family as platinum and palladium. If this watch is not plated in rhodium, you're going to want to head out and get that done because unplated white gold tends to look gray. Lighting is good in this photo and could hide the fact that it's unplated but in person, you'll know right away what's going on. Does someone know the answer?

The movement is a very reliable Lemania manual chronograph.

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White Dial:

The same watch as the one above but with a white dial. This watch could benefit from the same strap swap as the one above. A deep burgundy crocodile or tan shark skin strap would make this watch look less like a $200 Perfect Clones bargain and more like a $40,000 country club stunner.

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Patek Philippe 10027:

For those who prefer Arabic numerals this watch would be a better choice. The numerals are printed on the dial but mimic and closely resemble the applied numbers on the 5016G GC, 5196P Calatrava and 3939HR GC. None of these aforementioned watches are chronographs, by the way. So I'm inclined to believe this watch is a fantasy, based on several watches not just one. This watch is also allegedly plated in white gold and powered by a Lemania manual movement.

The good thing about this watch and the ones above is that since they are essentially fantasy models, there are no tells which could result in the watch being deemed a replica.

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Patek Philippe Reference 5070:


This replica is actually based on a currently available watch: the ever popular, highly collectible reference 5070 which comes in white, red, and yellow gold. It also comes in platinum and has been available in an ultra-exclusive, extremely limited edition of black gold or brown gold. As the model is continually updated, the previous iterations sell for large sums of money well above their retail price and addendum. The current model, like it's colleague the Daytona, sells for over retail anywhere you are able to purchase it. As far as Patek Philippe Grand Complications are concerned, it is considered the most accessible for those new to Patek but is also well represented in the watch cases of seasoned collectors. No matter which way you look at it, this watch is considered among many as the perfect chronograph and fittingly has a HUGE and VOCAL fan club.

First, the good thing about this replica is that it contains a similar movement to the genuine watch, just like the Patek above. The real 5070 contains a version of the Lemania handwind chronograph that's in the replica but it is reworked completely to be suitable for use in a watch of this caliber. Strangely enough, Patek didn't have their own in-house chronograph until 2006, instead relying on Lemania eubaches for decades. This Lemania movement is the reason that owning this particular replica, or any of the others above, is not a completely soulless experience. You have some ties to the original company and the original watch.

This is what the original watch looks like and costs.

The main tell on this watch is near the subdials; on the original, they are slightly bigger and cut deeper into the eight and four. And there's another tell that actually isn't a tell in the way we know it. Some 5070s have the smooth crown and some have the spiked crown, both being completely correct. The dials is a soft cream and the case is plated in 18k white gold. The genuine watch sells for between $70,000 and $90,000. Some special versions have even gone into the low six figures.

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Roger Dubuis

The fact that somebody even bothered to take the time to replicate their watches shows that they are on the path to becoming a legendary brand within the annals of horology. I was able to see them constructing the building they use to make their magnificent watches in Switzerland in 2002, albeit I didn't know who they were at the time but that has changed. The building is very modern but the work they do within it has its roots in tradition, which is what I think their watches and jewelry signify. In a relatively short period of time, they have gone from obscurity and catapulted themselves into space occupied with names like Patek, Vacheron, and Piguet. They distinguish themselves from this stalwarts by adding a great deal of restrained whimsy into many of their product lines.

Roger Dubuis is watchmaker who worked at Patek Philippe for 14 years before starting a company of his own in the early 1980s. His drop dead gorgeous designs and attention to what some would consider insignificant details lead to his gaining a very cult-like following that was rabid for each watch introduction he made. Carlos Dias, a fan of Dubuis' watches since the late 1980s, decided to capitolize on Dubuis' skill and strong niche positioning to take his company further into the world of haute horology by allowing Dubuis' to focus more energy creative pursuits like further inventing and refining of his movements and cases. This synergistic partnership has produced some of the world's most amazing timepieces that, for lack of a better cliche, take your breath away. The best part of this is that since they became a full blown manufacture, their creative fruits are only available to their clientèle who decide to choose a Dubuis.

The company "Roger Dubuis" was founded by Carlos Dias with Roger Dubuis in 1995 has gone from a tiny boutique operation using and embellishing movements of other companies in their own cases into a small but totally movement independent powerhouse that makes EVERYTHING used in the movements in-house, which is almost unheard of in the watchmaking world. Patek Philippe cannot even claim that. They even submit every single watch they make to the Poincon de Geneve which hallmarks the watch for not just being merely high-quality but ULTRA-high precision quality in total craftsmanship. For that, I think they must be celebrated which notable collectors around the world agree.

Unfortunately, in my humble opinion, Richemont ( a Swiss luxury goods conglomerate along the lines of LVMH and parent company to brands like A. Lange, Panerai and Alfred Dunhill) purchased Dias' 60% stake in the company this month. They have guaranteed that regardless of the change in ownership, the company will function almost autonomously and WILL NOT share movements with the firm's other brands.

S.A.W. Easy Diver:

If Jules Verne's Captain Nemo had known about this watch in his fictional world 20,000 leagues under the sea, I feel he he would have worn it and worn it proudly. The watch is both modern and traditional in the way it is made, which at this point is a cliche but totally apropos, to this watch in particular. The circle-within-a-square shape is a fantastic bit of detail that the replicators of the watch got so right. The webbing of the dial is distinct and the markers are spot on to the genuine watch. The only detail that isn't completely up to the level of quality exhibited by the rest of the watch are the spikes on the bezel; the genuine's spikes are sharper, like the teeth of a young shark or, in their words a "S.A.W." This watch in person is out of this world beautiful! Go to an authorized dealer and look for yourself. Go ahead, I'll wait.

The level of detail involved in crafting the genuine watch, spectacular to view in person, is almost entirely present in this watch. Engravings are deep and finishes, from polished to brushed, are top notch. This watch is stainless and contains the a copy of the Venus 75, which is a manual wind movement. This isn't bad because the real watch is a manual wind as well. It comes three dial colors and has been updated to be even closer in appearance to the genuine.

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A Bevy of Breguets

Breguet has been extant since 1775. Abraham-Louis Breguet made one of horology's smallest and most fascinating marvel: the tourbillon. Some people know this and some people do not but its importance in showcasing the skill of the watchmaker in addition to supposedly increasing accuracy is undeniable. Breguet's are instantly recognizable by their intricate guilloche dials, blue hands, lugs soldered to the case and deep coin edge detail, styling that a LOT of other brands have tried to implement into their own designs, with varying levels of failure. As an aside, the numbers on the dials were once actual "serial numbers" but are now only a nod to their storied past.

Owning a Breguet replica is actually really close to owning a real Breguet, much to the chagrin of collectors. Watch pundits, like Carlos Perez, have speculated lately on Breguet's continuing relevance, or ilack thereof, in the field of haute horology because of nagging movement and movement sharing issues. The Swatch Group, especially Nicholas Hayek since he resigned his post as president of Swatch to take the helm of Breguet himself, is making sure this brand remains an important company in watches and I for one think they can do it.

I'm fairly certain this brand is the choice of Maryland's Worthington Valley upper crust because I saw several Breguets at Preakness this May.

Breguet 5907/5140/1950:

I thought I'd start with this as I'm always on board with replicas that are made of precious metals and stones as they make any replica feel and appear real. Replicas made from genuine gold, platinum or silver are nothing specifically new. There are many jewelers who will put together a watch out genuine parts and aftermarket parts ("frankenwatches" as their known). But asking them to put one together out of cases, bracelets and bezels made of gold or platinum is something that will usually get you a strange look or worse. They won't just do it for anybody because the consequences if the manufacturer of the genuine watch finds out is usually swift and severe; we know of people here who take their replicas to authorized dealers all the time so imagine what would happen if this type of person got a solid gold Rolex or Hublot Big Bang replica in solid platinum.

My mother had a Rolex Datejust cobbled together with a case and bracelet made of real gold from a jeweler in Hong Kong. The dial and movement and bezel were all aftermarket, if I'm not mistaken. The whole watch cost her about $5,000 which saved her $10,000 from buying a genuine one identical to what she got. The watch was good investment because, depending on the price of gold, it's worth at least $8,000 to $9,000. She's not a watch replica person by any means (although she I a replica purse person) but she wanted a solid gold watch but couldn't justify the cost in her mind for it.

There are many jewelers that will do this kind of watch for you if they know you or you are referred to them by a client they deem trustworthy. But it seems Andrew (TrustyTime) has already taken out the cloak-and-dagger aspect of hunting down a solid gold watch. He offers a Breguet that is made of solid 18k gold with a genuine ETA 7001 manual movement. This watch appears to be taking cues from not one, not two but THREE different references. It has a dial layout, meaning where the numbers and subdial is placed, similar to the 5907 but putting the numbers in raised, separate boxes is a gesture towards the venerable 1950, a pocketwatch. The back of the watch is the only part of the watch not having its own identity problems because it matches the 3910 but obviously the watch couldn't be a 3910 because the 3910 came only in self-winding movement! Overall, the watch is a beauty and I believe it's multiple personalities lend it a very custom, one-of-a-kind feeling, something Breguet has been known for in previous centuries.

If you buy this watch for yourself or someone, it puts you into the company of royalty, popes and celebrities, fictional and non-fictional. The watches this watch replicates are typically five figure timepieces so $1,500 is not a bad deal for a solid gold watch with a solid gold reputation. If you buy it, please, please, PLEASE buy an appropriate strap as this thing hurts my eyes even now. If a replica watch ever deserved a genuine strap of some kind, it's this one.


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Breguet 3870:

I think one of the most beguiling things about Breguet is that they not only make beautiful watches, they make beautiful watches that LOOK and FEEL like they cost you a pretty penny. So many brands today ask for a lot of money but you don't feel as if you truly spent any. I have Rolex Explorer I and I think it's a $500 watch all day long; there's not $4,000 workmanship or pizzaz in it whatesoever! And this holds true with a lot of premium watch brands. Not so with a genuine Breguet. We're looking at enamel dials, skeletonizing, hand-engraved scroll work on most of the plates and multiple features packed into one watch. When you buy a $100,000 dollar watch from Breguet, you know you got a $100,000 looking-watch, regardless of how you feel about them selling their movements to others.

This watch below is one of those watches that while it has functionality of a genuine grand complication that would be offered by Breguet, it is not base on any complication of which I am aware except the 3870PT. I checked as thoroughly as I could and found nothing I could pin this watch's heritage to definitively. Either way, it happens to be a fine chronograph with a functioning moonphase and calendar. I like it and, like the other watches in this guide with leather straps, it would smarten up significantly with proper strap of any hue.


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Breguet 5237/3637:

This little number IS based on an existing watching, three actually but I only counted two that I found to be closest to it. The refernce 5237BA and 3637 are the watches that resemble it most closely, almost identically. This watch comes in two other variations and so would go well with anything you might want to pair it with like a suit or even jeans. It is plated in 18k gold and powered by a Lemania movement.

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Two-Tone Dial:

The same watch with a distinctive two-tone face.
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Cream Dial:

Here it is with the absolutely lovely cream dial. Again, to magnify the beauty of these Breguet watches, a new and substantial strap is necessary.

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Breguet 5957 PT:

A board member who owns this watch is Diablo who swears by it. he also did a short review of it in all its glory and I recommend reading it if tourbillons or this watch fascinate you. To own a Breguet, who invented the tourbillon, like this is fitting. The watch is replicating the 5357PT most closely but the dial (the one above the tourbillon opening) is actually smaller on the genuine watch. And like he mentioned, which I agree with, this one looks better with the numbers taking up more of the dial's open space for better aesthetic appeal. This watch is also plated in 18k white gold and powered by an automatic movement.

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Chopard


Thanks to Chopard's immense success in the jewelry and accessories end of their business, people have almost forgotten that this company is first and foremost a watchmaker, with every successive Chopard child from 1860 certified as a master watchmaker up until 1963. The company contributed many horological innovations, with one of the most interesting ones being the very first tonneau-shaped self-winding watch which worked with a specially calibrated micro-rotor. I was surprised to learn that no one else had done this before them, like Patek or even Breguet. I find this particularly interesting because my Chopard is tonneau shaped, as is every single other Prince of Wales.

Mille Miglia Gran Turismo XXL

This watch is definitely a super replica. It matches the genuine watch so well, Chopard should track down the person who engineered the replication and HIRE HIM; it's that good. There's no issue of showing this watch, even to another Mille Miglia owner, and having it give away the fact that it is a copy of a fantastic watch. If we could get factories to produce replicas of the L.U.C. line, THAT would be something. The chronographs below also feature the natural layout of the Asian 7750 so reliability with this watch over time should be close to that of the genuine. Take care of it and it will last as long as you do!

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Grey Dialed Limited Edition:

This model is like the one above but it has the '12' and '6' stenciled onto the inside of the crystal so it floats above the face and casts a cute shadow on the face. This little detail is very interesting and sure to get you a second glance and a compliment. I know I've never seen it before.

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There are some people who seem to think that you can't wear a watch like this formally and I'm here to say they are wrong. Sport watches tend to "clean up" well with a nice leather or exotic skin strap. I'm all about juxtaposing traditional with modern or classic with contemporary because it almost always looks great. It startles because it is not ordinary and what is expected. And it delights because it just looks great. The very business-like and Teutonic precision makes this watch look great in all scenarios with any strap. Fellow RG member DVS has gussied up his LE GT with a tan crocodile strap with contrasting white stitching makes this watch ready for the checkered flag! Take a look:



White Dial Non-Chrono:


This watch also comes in other dial colors so you're not stuck with white. The movement is the Asian ETA Valgranes A07.111 movement which is a high beat movement so the sweeping of the second hand is spot on to genuine.



Vacheron Constantin:


One of watchmaking's Big Three, Vacheron Constantin was founded in1755 and is the oldest watchmaker in the world with an uninterrupted history. The brand stands for horological breakthroughs, uncompromisable luxury and steadfast quality in every single watch created. What did Vacheron give the world? They created the very first complicated watch, for one. For all those people working at the Fermi National Accelerator Laboratory, you'll be happy that Vacheron created the first non-magnetic timepiece in 1885. Suck on that, Milgauss!


Vacheron Constantin 47031:

This watch has a case more in line with the Patrimony but with a dial as detailed and intricate as the reference 47031. It is certainly the kind of design that makes you say, "If they didn't make it, they should." The dial's small box within a box guilloche pattern is absolutely gorgeous and makes for an interesting look. The bezel's subtle sawtooth detail is nice design feature that is also carried onto the back of the watch. Very nice. The watch is plated in 18k gold and powered by an ETA 2824-2, a much maligned but otherwise sturdy movement.

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Vacheron Constantin Malte Chronographe Reference 47120:


Missing two dots on the outside of the chrono subdials at 9 and 3. This watch looks almost identical to the reference 47120 except for the two dots that should bo on either side of the chronograph subdials, representing nine and three. Other than this detail, you'd be hard-pressed to tell differences between the replica and the genuine. Changing out the strap on this watch is a must because the chintzy strap that comes with it is horrible and surely wouldn't fool a blind man.

If you want the believability of your replica to go up, just change the strap!

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Baume & Mercier

This is the brand that may not have as much reason to be included with the illustrious group above. This isn't to say that Baume & Mercier is not a great company with great watches, it's just that they are not as pioneering as the others in regards haute horology. But this doesn't mean that they can't get any attention. They manged to get mine just by making watches that may not have unique movements, but they have unique designs. Some of these designs evoke the appeal of other brands without being out and out copies by infusing enough of their own spirit in the watch. If Invicta could follow Baume & Mercier's lead, they could become a more respectable watch company!

The Baume family began company in 1834 with a focus on making only pocket watches. The fateful meeting with Paul Mercier didn't occur until 1918 and the rest is, as they say, history. The company has produced legendary watches such as Transpacific, Medicus and Shogun. But how could one possible forget their most famous sport watch: the Riviera.

Named after the famed vacation spot of the rich and beautiful, this watch is a celebrity in its own right, combining unique elements that have been borrowed by other brands over the years like Seiko and even Hublot, the Big Bang owing it's existence and popularity to this unsung hero. The reason I like this watch is because it combines the look of two very well-known watches into one believable and remarkably well-crafted package.

It's shape is at once reminiscent of the Royal Oak but less severe. The 12-sided bezel softens the angular and, frankly, harsh lines of the Royal Oak. Octagons are great but they can also be limiting and the Royal Oak, while being a great looking watch, looks dated because of this. The Riviera improves upon this by getting closer to what is considered the perfect shape (circle) but leaving just enough visual interest so the design doesn't become boring. It also reduces the industrial feeling of certain Royal Oaks by forgoing eight exposed screws in favor of four.

It also resembles the Hublot Big Bang with it's nearly circular face and rubber strap. I've seen genuine and handled a Hublot Big Bangs in person; my ex had one in black and red gold with diamonds and it's a STUNNING watch to see in person. I've also seen the replicas of this watch and find them VERY easy to distinguish from a genuine. That's not a problem for the Riviera because it's made exactly like the real Riviera.

The other thing I love about this watch is that it doesn't have the Asian copy of the Valjoux 7750 chronograph running in an unengineered, unnatural way, a way that could possibly have long-term reliability implications. There's many, many variations of this watch available in PVD, red gold plating, stainless steel bracelets and dial combinations.

Riviera Chronograph:

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All of these watches make a statement because each one was planned and designed from scratch, starting life simply as an idea in someone's mind and then transferred to paper, piece by piece. It seems everything that adorns their cases is there for a reason, with almost nothing that shouldn't be there. It's not a "simplicity for the sake of simplicity" type of look. To me, certain other brands are simple because they have nothing else to offer. There is no history to draw inspiration from (or if there is it's brief) and, like Mini Coopers, they are trapped in a box they created for themselves. They COULD branch out but then you have "THE PURIST" (also known as THE @SS) who decides that all products that continue down that path aren't "true" whatever product we're speaking about. This happened most interestingly to Porsche when they introduced the Cayenne.

I want to say again any feedback, comments or questions that you have are always welcome. Thanks everyone!